This Audemars Piguet 25657 proves that it is still possible to get into ultra-high end watchmaking at a relatively affordable price.When we think of Audemars Piguet nowadays, the first thing we think about is the Royal Oak (or the code 11.59 if you’re Jasper). But that obscures AP’s distinguished history of producing beautifully finished and highly complicated watches.

Audemars Piguet’s introduction of the ‘Quantième Perpétuel Automatique’ line of ultra-thin perpetual calendar wristwatches with an automatic movement in 1978 has been one the most significant innovations in watchmaking in the last 50 years. This ref. 25657 is executed in a slim 18k rose gold case, measuring a classic 36 mm. The case features a lovely stepped bezel, elegant downturned lugs, and a small crown. Only 362 pieces of this reference were produced in rose gold between 1982 and 1993. The ref. 25657 was made with a number of different dials. This white execution is the most understated of the bunch and features elegant applied 18k rose gold stick indices and matching thin gold hands as well as three lovely recessed sub-dials that indicate the day, date, month, and phase of the moon.

The ‘Quantième Perpétuel line is powered by Audemars Piguet’s caliber 2120/2800 automatic movement, which is derived from Jaeger Lecoultre’s legendary ultra-thin caliber 920 base movement. This base movement was of course used, among others, in AP’s Royal Oak, Patek’s Nautilus, and Vacheron Constantin’s 222. For the QP line, Audemars Piguet reworked the 920 to include an incredible perpetual calendar complication as well as a 21k rose-gold rotor. This 25657 dates back to 1984 and comes with original box, papers and booklets.

• Shop name: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
• Price: 30,000
• Shipping / Services: Worldwide